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Yes, it can. The main culprit is the motor shaft seal develops a crack (most commonly form overheating- lack of water, etc.) and then water is allowed to travel from the "wet end" of the pump up the shaft seal and to the bearings where it eventually rusts out the bearings and you get the noises from this pump. So, for whatever reason, the shaft seal failed and allowed water to get to the motor and deteriorate it. Make sense?

Mike the Poolman Yes thank you sir

Hi Gene, I can't answer this definitively but I'n guessing what you stated is accurate: 100% coverage is 100% effective. 80% coverage is 80% effective. I try to limit how much water is exposed but its difficult to cover all water in a free-form pool.

Hi Carolie, I buy my equipment at my local pool wholesale supply company.

Thank you Marie

Hi Carlos, as long as the pvc pipes are floating you're okay. If some water gets on top of the bubble cover its no big deal and long it is still floating on top of the water and inst submerged (which would be very difficult to do if you're using a bubble cover since it has all the little bubbles and is so buoyant). Thanks for watching! Mike

Hi Lisa, if you don't have hose bib on your pool you have to get creative: a) the old fashioned way- with a bucket (pointless w all the rain) b) buy a sump pump and pump it out c) turn on the filter and open the air bleed on the filter. depending on which brand filter you have will determine how much flow comes out of it (Pentair clean & clear filters allow a lot of flow). d) take the pool cleaner out of the pool. if you have a pressure side pool cleaner it will shoot water out (if you have a suction side cleaner the pump will suck air and you'll lose prime). e) remove drain plug on filter. Make sure pump is off when doing so. Turn pump on and get ready for A LOT of erosion. It will drain fast but it will erode soil around it. f) have someone install a hose bib for next time. Good luck! Mike

It isnt so much the temperature increase as it is the temperature savings. That is, without solar rings the pool would lose 5-7 degrees at night (in the summer). With the solar rings it only loses about 2 degrees a night.

Hi Joel, it could be torn but I've never seen it. a) do you have the internal air bleed tube in the tank? b) is the little nipple screen on the air bleed tube (and if its ripped, DE will bypass there) c) I have seen in a few instances where it slowly leaks past the stand pipe o-ring. When this has happened to me it sealed itself up within a week and I didn't have any more issues. If you are having large amounts of DE coming right back into the pool I would look for tears in the fabric or cracks in the plastic (top and bottom) that holds it together. While difficult, the plastic will crack under pressure if you completely neglect the filter for years and run the filter pressure too high.

Doesnt matter but I try and keep mine on the upper but they eventually sag a bit and get lower. They work the same.

Eight

Hi Sherilyn, I'm sorry for the tardy reply, the pool business is hectic in California! The rings raise the temp a bit but they are most helpful at preventing heat loss at night. Bubble side down, they typically rest on the water. We try to run pumps before noon as electricity gets more expensive after 12pm.

Hi Dick, the filter material is similar from filter to filter but I cant say for sure its the same material. That being said, clean it and recharge it. Your filter isn't as simple to clean but its still an excellent filter.

+Edward Hoffman Hi Edward, yes, I still really like this filter. My only complaint is that it leaks more than I like. You just have to install a new tank o-ring every 1-2 years. Also, im not a fan of robotic cleaners. While they do an awesome job, you have to empty their bag/ canister every day and they are VERY heavy to remove from pool (especially when filled with water). My #1 choice by far is the Polaris 280. After that its the Polaris 360. The 280 performs better and lasts longer. The 360 is less expensive but doesnt perform as well.

+Bao-Luan Le Greta question. Ive found the Quad60 is so effective at trapping debris that it needs to be cleaned more often than id like. I don't install it much anymore as i go with the Quad 80 when i need to match a yellow whisperflo pump or i need a smaller footprint on the pad than the S7MD60. I've been in conversation w Pentair about making the Quad series in a black (in addition to the existing yellow) tank. Same performance, black just looks better on the EQ pad.

+Eugene S Solar blankets are less expensive but they are difficult to remove as they are cumbersome and heavy. And, once its off, storage is an issue for most. If you can easily remove your blanket then yes, juts use it.

+eric duren MTJ 770

+Eric Villagomez MTJ 770

+moejazzur MTJ 770

+Rich Reis - yes, you can backwash them but you'd need a backwash valve plumbed into it. I used to install them and found that customers weren't opening the filter often enough and relying too much on backwashing. I stopped putting them on because its so easy to clean it forces you to open it up and clean it (which is more effective anyway). This is what I call "Pool Parenting" :)

+Mike the Poolman Thank you. I'm looking at buying a used one that needs a new cartridge for a good price. Besides the cartridge, what wear items should I look for when purchasing a used filter?

+Rich Reis . That's a great filter tank. However, its Achilles heel is developing a crack when its run under high pressure for years on end: ruclips.net/video/EymAlvDn0fE/видео.html Other than that they are pretty bullet proof.

TJ Elias Hi TJ, A new heater was installed. Too much chemical damage throughout the heater to salvage.

David N Hi David, great question. Sta-Rite makes two tanks in the System 3 series: the 300 and the 450. Unfortunately you cannot convert the larger 450SF tank to DE (we refer to it as a 450 as it was the original size, Sta-Rite later introduced the 500SF element which uses the same 450 tank). The 300SF tank can be converted to DE by changing the bulkheads. A conversion kit is available but its hard to find and special order but its a great way for someone to convert their paper filter to a modular DE. And I agree, the modular DE filter is so easy to clean!

As much as possible. The more coverage the more heat you retain.

James Raaymakers Hi James, if your filter pressure gets to 35 PSI I would guess you have 1.5" plumbing. I rarely see 35 PSI except on systems with extremely dirty filters, systems with an over-sized pump/ systems with undersized plumbing.. A 1.0HP is fine on 2" PVC pipe because it can handle the flow. A 1.0 on 1.5" plumbing is too much and creates backpressure which leads to pipe joint leaks, filters cracks and failed pump motor shaft seals. I don't use any more than 1/2HP pump on 1.5" plumbing. I'm going to guess you have a 1.0HP to get the pool cleaner to run (because a 1/2HP isn't enough to make the pool cleaner move properly). Ive seen this situation thousands of times. There are three solutions: 1- re-plumb the entire system with 2.0" pipe 2- install a pool cleaner with a booster pump (e.g. Polaris 280) 3- install a variable speed pump and run it on low speed except for an hour a day when you need the pool cleaner to move. This is a great example of why proper sizing at construction is so critical to water hydraulics.

Nope, 2" plumbing. I don't let it get to 35 PSI. If it gets close to 35 PSI while running the Polaris, I clean the filter elements, the screen filter in the outout line for the Polaris. But normally its 15 PSI without Polaris and around 20 to 25 with the polaris.

Oh, I have a Polaris 360.

Anyhow, I will be putting it back together at 1:30 PM today and run it to see my epoxy job will work as a temporary fix. I do plan on buying a new filter assembly as soon as I have the money. I can't just leave my pool unfiltered during summer season. I did use a Marine Grade 2 part epoxy (most epoxys are not suitable to be submerged water for long periods of time) and it dryed rock hard. I will let you know how it goes.

James Raaymakers Well, I put it all back together, turned it on and it did not leak. Pressure was 15 PSI. Good. Then I cycled the valve to the Polaris, heard a cracking sound, looked at the pressure, 30 PSI, went to look at the leak, and it was leaking again. That's when I noticed my pressure relief valve on the output fitting to the Polaris was not working. Nothing coming out. So it is stuck closed causing it to go to 30 PSI. Guess I'm going to have to finance my new Filter assembly and buy a new pressure relief valve. It is 14 years old, not as strong as it used to be so it is probably time to replace it anyhow. Nothing lasts forever. :(. Thanks.

Terri M Hi Terri, I don't use them on the swimming pool in the winter as they serve no purpose. One of the things I like about the PVC solar squares is that they stack upright very easily. I keep them in the shade on the side of my house in the off-season.

Hi Brad, good question! The 50 PSI rating is the rating at which the tank will blow up. There are many factors involved with water hydraulics and putting too much stress on the system over long periods of time will lead to something eventually rupturing. Its kind of like high blood pressure in our body. We can live with high blood pressure until something ruptures and then its major trouble. Its better to operate at low pressure and not stress the system except when needed (using the spa, solar, etc). This is another why variable speed pumps are so valued- you can run the pump at low speed and pressure for the majority of the time and then ramp it up for short periods of time to run the cleaner, spa, solar, backwashing, etc. Make sense? Sincerely, Mike

Thank you Bradley. Yes, the internal tube and screen should be there. It helps relieve pressure and without it the filter could crack and implode. If you are cleaning it every month I'm guessing someone didn't recharge it after a cleaning. The only time Ive ever had to replace an element is when someone failed to recharge the filter with new DE and the element was ruined when dirt impacted in it.

Update: I sanded the area around the crack and used Water Weld to create a patch over the crack. After it cured, I sanded the edges and applying a thin layer of caulk to deal the edges of the patch. Let dry overnight. The patch is holding...BUT...I also changed the filter elements and now I am only reading 15 PSI. This is not a permanent fix, but it allows me to keep pool clean while I wait for $450 upper tank replacement.

Hi Tim, Thanks for the kind works. Its always a pleasure to help other honest pool techs